Uniforms in varying incarnations and their semiotics have always been at the core of menswear. The youthful formality of school uniforms, the tailored power suits of office workers and the practical utility of workwear and military uniforms, are key menswear tropes. All have become classic wardrobe staples, communicating certain messages about the wearer. We have all worn a form of uniform in our lifetimes, consciously or subconsciously, as they are interwoven into our everyday life. In an age where people are developing a more minimal capsule wardrobe, a personal uniform with key staples is both pragmatic, as most menswear is, and timeless.
The beauty of uniforms, their details and materials are at the core of Parisian label LOWNN. LOWNN, an acronym of the two founders Loïc (LO) and Swann (WNN) Joachim’s first names.
The twin brothers with backgrounds in graphic and spatial design and many years of experience as wholesale managers, founded the brand in Paris, 2016. With a key focus on traditional menswear uniforms and their fabrications, re imagined and crafted into relaxed minimal modern classics.
For SS21 LOWNN continue their development of modern uniform dressing. Military uniforms and their details and Tailoring are the key themes in the collection. Taking inspiration particularly from those of the 1940’s, where uniforms became more apparent (pre and post WW2) and were key elements of the of the burgeoning new youth subcultures and movements.
“Our inspiration comes mainly from the world of work, military and tailored uniforms. The workers, who challenge us with their uniforms and their pragmatic side”
The idea of uniform and uniformity also extends to the fabrics used within the collections. Luxurious Italian woven wool mohair and virgin wool cloths, traditionally used in tailoring, are reinterpreted into LOWNN’s signature relaxed silhouette. Taking the fabric out of its original context and melding it into a new contextual uniform. The duality of uniforms in the eyes of the Joachim brothers is apparent in the full looks. Crafted from the same cloth in a monochromatic colour palette. Making each item within the collection able to seamlessly be paired with other items, whilst still attaining the concept of uniform through fabrication and details.
Our SS21 offering is a concise representation of the brands ethos and development of its concept. The first of two Lownn shirts in the offering is the short sleeved Minimal Shirt. Cut in the signature boxy silhouette with drop shoulders, crafted from a summer weight wool, a tailoring cloth, in Brown Tobacco. The cloth with its natural drape and structure works in harmony with the cut and silhouette of the piece. Covered button placket, simple patch pocket on the chest and French seam finishing adhere to the minimalist nature and clean lines of the collection.
The second is a Long Utility Shirt made from traditional wool mohair in black. Maintaining the clean lines and boxy silhouette, the long sleeve shirt features a large chest pocket with flap. The flap pocket is mirrored in a smaller form on the upper sleeve, a nod to work wear a military details. The lower part of the short features two large rectangular pockets, layered on top of each other. Finished with a hem that goes from a soft curve to a clean straight line.
“When choosing fabric we pay attention to its quality, provenance and feel. Fabric choice is very important as it is one of the primary that allows clothing to stand out and be”
The Lownn bottoms come in two styles, mirroring the shirts. One short and one full length trouser.
A voluminous Cargo Short is realised in a summer weight black wool mohair with a single front pleat. Large chevron flap pockets and box pleat cargo pockets are the military details offsetting the traditional tailoring fabric from which they are constructed. An elasticated drawstring waistband also feature belt loops, forging the duality between functionality and formality.
The second is is a loose fitting straight leg trouser crafted from a lightweight wool in a beautifully rich Tobacco brown. Adding a new colour to the Lownn monochromatic palette. The single pleat adds volume to the upper of the trouser, which is soft they structured as it travels down the leg finishing in a slight taper. Slanted side pockets add to the minimalist graphic nature and versatility of these Lownn trousers.
A military jacket inspired by the twins vintage finds from the 1940’s. Realised in the black summer weight wool mohair, is the outerwear piece for the selection. Continuing the thread of uniformity in fabrication which runs through the selection. The silhouette remains boxy and relaxed with a slightly cropped torso. Two large box pleat pockets sit on either side of the front, a play on proportion and positioning giving a fresh take on a uniform classic. It is these small nuances, a pleat here, a drop shoulder there and a french seam finish all contribute to the universe that is being built by Lowwn. It’s testament to the aesthetic and sensibilities that Loïc and Swann have infused into their brand. Very much like the similarity between them as twins, the garments have a sense of uniformity and familiarity through the fabrications. The duality of two different personalities is evident in the details. Like twins, you have to pay attention to the details to notice the small nuances and minimal differences between them.