Ann Demeulemeester – an asymmetric romance: AW16
August 30, 2016
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Ann Demeulemeester, the eponymous label was launched by the Belgian designer in 1986 as part of the now infamous Antwerp Six in London, known for its dark romanticism, flourishes of dandyism and effortless asymmetry.
Since stepping down as creative director in November 2013, French designer Sebastien Meunier has continued the asymmetrical romanticism which defines the brand.
The selection for AW16 encapsulates the ethos and soul of Demeulemeester.
A form fitting wool blend coat in reckless black is anything but reckless. The textured wool is reminiscent of rain drops on a cold winters evening. A small stand collar and inverted lapel meet at the neck and are connected via a curved zip closure. The piece can also be worn tied with a belt that rests on one side balancing the asymmetry between the curved zip and overlapping front panels, which on the under side are lined in a Carver black leather, creating a hidden contrast, which is a detail specifically just for the wearer.
A ‘DNA’ piece for the brand is the waistcoat. This iteration is created using a textured shimmering solid gold, like the last rays of sunlight peeking through the autumn leaves. A curved front with a 3 button closure leads you to the back in Bastian black, which features two belted ties which are signature of Demeulemeester’s waistcoats.
The sleeveless wrap cardigan in a ribbed alpaca wool, when worn is like the warm embrace of a lover on a cold winter morning. This piece can be worn in a variety of ways using the over sized safety pin closure.
A river never flows backwards, but a Demeulemeester shirt can be worn as such. In a stark infinity black, the front features a tonal embroidery of a flowing river shimmering under the moonlight. The rear of the shirt features a classic collar and button fastenings down the center back. The slightly billowing sleeves have over sized asymmetric cuffs.
The vittorio shirt is offered in off-white reminiscent of morning mist. The button up shirt has a half placket and features a tie on the waist which lathers the silhouette, thus creating a draped and asymmetrical effect.
The asymmetric trouser, made from a wool viscose mix is both relaxed and sharp. Contradiction never looked so elegant. One leg is cut slim and tailored perfectly, whilst the other is cut wide and loose. When in motion it seems like the winds passing through a cities towering buildings.
The grito trousers (which is shout in Spanish) in a deep black, have a slight drape on the upper of one side, which fastens asymmetrically at the waist with an elasticated belt. Cut slim yet relaxed the trouser hems are finished with a ribbed cuff, adding to the leisurely feel of the piece.
The boulevard trousers, crafted from a fine virgin wool, seem simplistic at first. It is the subtle details of asymmetry that elevate them. Once again playing on different areas, one leg has an extended panel on the front, whilst the opposite leg has an extended panel on the back curving around the leg.
The infinity skirt wraps around the wearer like the symbol from which it takes its name. With a curved, overlapped opening at the front, the infinite line continues around the hem of the skirt. With a offset belt fastening and back zip, this is a piece you may want to wear infinitely.
The laced derby made of supple calf leather is the ideal grounding for most outfits. With a rounded toe box and lifted heel, it takes it from what is normally considered a masculine shoe to the realm of femininity with the simplest of details. Leather lined and with a rubber tread sole, these shoes will take you where ever your heart desires.
Crafted from a supple calf leather the boots have a sleek and sharp appearance. The ankle height boot tapers down to a rounded point and is balanced with a high Cuban heel and leather sole.
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